Waves: 1.5 to 2m
Had a massage at 8am which was the best I have ever had.
Went for a walk in the morning between 7 and 8 down to a resort; they have their own private cove and beach, and the views along the main beach were impressive, as well as back to the break. There is a large sea cave at the end of the beach too.
An outrigger canoe came in to the middle of the long beach, which also had a break as big as the main break at the far end of it.
The locals were dressed in finery and seemed to be participating in a ceremony in a house I passed along the way.
|2010-08-04 Wave camp day 3|
We had some more theory in morning followed by lunch
- pop knees up the height of the white water you are about to cross
- if crest coming, turn away to reduce impact, then turn back out after it has broken
- big broken water coming - jump of board completely and do a "bomb shape" to reduce flailing
- slow down for broken waves - if you hit them too fast you can launch - if no straps you are off the board.
- 2nd half of figure 8 setup - when going out and a good wave presents, turn kite, then turn board to get on wave.
I headed out for the first and was nearly out, but another kite looming up coming in, I checked my speed and stopped. The kite dipped down in the wind hole and landed. Shit. I popped my safetys and surfed in on the board. The wind speed had dropped too so all kites were in.
We sat on the beach for a while and chatted. At about 2:30 the wind picked up and Bruce headed out.
I got out with no trouble, but I had to slow down a bit to avoid launching over a lip. Once out I was well powered on the 14. I went out the blue water and did one foot swap to make some ground.
On the next trip out I tried toeside riding. Initially, I lost speed and board bogged down bringing me to a halt. I then reset direction and tried a carved turn to generate more speed. This worked, and I was off and going. I found leaning well over the board away from the kite helped, and reaching out with my right hand free of the bar. Keeping both hands on the bar tends to pull my body back toward the kite and disrupt the stance. I was able to bring my rear foot forward, in fact leaving it there for the turn helped. I was able to hold my ground for a while and get used to it.
I did three runs in toeside - the most I have ever done.
I ended up close to the rocks, which are quite daunting. A bomby off the point, and waves breaking onto cliffs. I headed out on a longish tack to regain some ground upwind, then returned heel side.
Coming into the beach it all looked good. I entered the rip, then cruised in fast behind a broken wave. The shore came up very quickly, then the beach break looked like dumping me onto a band of pebbles on the beach. I got off the board, was dumped in the quite savage shore break and then crashed my kite in the water.
It really is a tough location in many ways.
Things to try tomorrow
- keep kite higher to go upwind
- carve a turn from toeside to heelside (necessary of getting on a wave)
- more toeside riding